When the Hired Belly arrived in Vancouver--about 20 kilos ago--the dining options were decidedly limited, compared to today. The first meal, I recall, was a plate of goulash at the Tokay, a Hungarian haunt on Davie Street (complete with "gypsy" violinist) now occupied by Takis Taverna.

There were other stalwarts, too, that remain, such as late night haunt La Bodega and the decidedly French Café de Paris, whose claim to fame at the time, beyond state of the art frites, included a bona-fide bidet, which was somewhat confusing to the squatters of the time.

Since the departure of former owners Richard Toussaint and Martine Levèbvre for Bouchons in Kelowna, Cafe de Paris has been less than stellar. Recently, an unfortunate series of events led to its sale and purchase by new owners Bruno Huber and Mario Khan, the man behind Ciao Bella.

With tricolours Italian and French emblazoned on opposite ends of the block, we were skeptical that the renamed Bistro de Paris (751 Denman St., ph. 604-687-1418) might be too much a reflection of the more touristic Italian room down the road. But when an impromptu group of us descended one recent evening, we were pleasantly surprised.

The Bistro, with its ample brass fittings and lace curtains nicely cleaned up, was humming with happy customers. In fact, we were lucky to score the last table, which just happened to be next to the illustrious ladies' washroom. No worries. It's probably cleaner today than it's ever been.

Service is brisk, friendly and informed, which suits the no-nonsense fare that comes courtesy of chef Michael Riley. For him, the Bistro is home, as he cooked there before the previous administration took over. This is down-to-earth, classic bistro cuisine, which reflects a satisfying shout-out to the institution's roots. Nothing fancy--just, for the most part, well-prepared and affordably priced plates, plus a smartly chosen and equally affordable wine list.

We didn't opt for the $30 three-course "Wild Salmon Special" proclaimed on a sandwich board outside. Instead we worked our way through at least a dozen plump and juicy, perfectly cooked Salt Spring "moules Provençale" in tomato shallot white wine broth ($9), a well-herbed "poulet de Paris" ($19), properly cooked steak frites with an assertive peppercorn sauce ($24), Coquille St. Jacques gratinée ($24) and adequately presented mesclun, and goat cheese and beet salads ($8).

Reassuring was the length to which our server went to accommodate one diner's severe aversion to onions and garlic--no small feat in a French restaurant. The burning question, of course, is, "What about the much vaunted fries?" Well, they've more than survived the transition, and show up free of charge (assuming you order entrées) golden crisp and double fried. Although if you crave aoili, there is a small charge.

The only real misfire of the evening was a peculiar excuse of watery risotto, which should never have left the kitchen, beside the otherwise well-executed coquilles.

The reborn Bistro de Paris delivers authentic, unadulterated French flavours, authenticity and value. (Serious wallet watchers should head there Wednesday evenings, when all entrées are half price.)

It's an ideal restaurant for the times and an enduring institution.

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