Not that it ever went away, but brunch is back with a vengeance.
A recent foray into Yaletown found me looking at the business end of a serious Caesar at Wild Tale Coastal Grill. They don’t mess around here, where the house Caesar comes garnished with lemon, cucumber and a morsel of candied salmon.
(Speaking of Caesars, if you see a whole bunch of people running around waving celery on May 19, they’re likely celebrating national Caesar Day. The salute to Canada’s “national cocktail” takes places from coast to coast to coast, with participants in more than 200 bars around the country. Check out special events, menus plus a chance to win tickets to Vancouver’s major toast at Score on Davie, nationalcaesarday.com.)
Wild Tale is run by the same folks who own the successful Flying Pig restos. An element of that flair shows up in a couple of brunch dishes, which mirror the restaurant’s mainly seafood focus, which also happens to be heavily Ocean Wise — another good thing.
Faves at our table ranged from the generously portioned crab cakes Benny (a pair of ‘em) and smoked salmon Benedict, to chicken and waffles and avocado toast on excellent multigrain. The crab cakes are seriously crabby and, overall, the plates are well conceived and attractively executed. An added bonus is the sun-drenched loading bay patio (shaded on hot days) that’s now a Yaletown hallmark. (1079 Mainland, wildtale.ca )
Brasserie is back
More than a few West Enders are relieved that the wraps are finally off the resurrected La Brasserie (1091 Davie St.), which experienced some choppy seas over the last couple of years. New owner William Wang has fully embraced the restaurant’s Franco-German style and eventually hopes to open a second location in his hometown of Tangshan, China. Wang loved the former La Brasserie so much that when he heard it was closing he decided to buy it.
Brunch is very much part of the program, with European influences evidenced in the likes of chicken Mornay crêpes (pulled rotisserie chicken, mushrooms, Gruyère and Mornay sauce), suckling pig with poached eggs, lamb cheek sliders and the gravity (and diet) defying Brasserie burger, with hanger steak, cheddar, bacon and crispy onion, plus truffle aioli. And, yes, “breakfast poutine” is unleashed with the usual fries, gravy and curds, but also bacon, poached egg, Hollandaise sauce and truffle oil.
The small selection of drinks is smartly chosen, including Parés Balta Cava Brut — the perfect eye opener and flexible brunch bubble. La Brasserie, too, takes their Caesars seriously, turning to Walter Caesar mix, spiced up with horseradish and a pickled bean. The mood is upbeat and the room as cozy as ever. labrasserievancouver.com.
Roll out the Barrel
The brunch fare at Tap & Barrel Shipyards (8 Lonsdale Ave., North Vancouver) is also all encompassing, with an array of Bennys (pulled bacon, salmon and veggie), de rigueur poutine and beer-friendly breakfast pretzel, as well as free run eggs used throughout. Aside from the bites, there are excellent local beers and smartly sourced, all on tap wines.
As the name implies, the latest Tap & Barrel is housed in the giant, fully restored, former shipyards building, with plentiful seating inside and out, wrapped in a retro industrial feel, with sweeping views of the harbour and downtown. Only a couple of minutes walk from the Seabus, it makes for a fun outing at brunch — or any time. tapandbarrel.com.
Belly’s Budget Best
Quails Gate Rosé 2015 (Okanagan)
This blend of Gamay Noir (80 per cent), Pinot Noir (10 per cent) and Pinot Gris (10 per cent) yields lifted strawberry and red berries, with juicy acidity citrus and clove through a dry finish. Ideal with cold cuts or for brunch. 91 pts. BCLS $16.49.
