How curious that Vancouver, with such an abundance of ocean bounty, still doesn’t sport a definitive seafood culture found in other major port cities. Is it our lack of a widespread, local seafood industry and independent fish markets compared to one controlled by a few big players? Or is it that we tend to take our seafood for granted? And are just a tad blasé
Happily, signs are that marine cuisine is on the rise. The era of planked Sockeye slabs is long gone. Today we have fresh clams and oysters, happy hours with buck-a-shuck galore, fish ‘n chips, po’boys, fish tacos, cracked crab, programs such as Ocean Wise and a growing number of serious seafood rooms.
Enter Supermarine (1685 Yew St., 604-739-4677), a nifty, cute and cozy offering in Kits from James Iranzad and Josh Pape of Bufala and Wildebeest fame. This neighbourhood, Lilliputian space is the makeover of their long-running Abigail’s Kitchen. It was ditched in favour of something more upbeat, interesting and topical on the plate. Best of all, it’s almost entirely seafood driven.
An abundance of inventive tastes includes crispy octopus chips. The presentation — piled in an on a small mason jar — is pure fun, with a smoky tomato sauce for dipping ($9). Think a crunchy riff on classic patatas bravas.
Or you could be seduced by the “confit” of herring, with romesco verde, toasted hazelnuts and sourdough crumbs, which add up to a tasty twist on this all too-often-overlooked species.
Try them both with a glass of juicy, citrus-toned rosé (from Lebanon’s extraordinary Chateau Musar), or with Schloss Gobelsburg’s crisp Grüner Veltliner. If the menu’s adventuresome, the smartly picked wine list and clever cocktails comes along for the ride.
As much as possible, Supermarine stays doggedly close to local sourcing. Yet when it comes to preparations, there are no sacred cows. I love the tongue in cheek treatment afforded to the snow crab, which comes Tempura style, with honey and black pepper glaze and bok choy purée ($16).
Not to be missed, finishing tastes like fresh berries, Chantilly cream and almond cake or yuzu lemon curd with shaved celery and black pepper are fun combinations that push the envelope.
The mood is laid back and the colourful plates sport just the right sense of informality, with a dash of Kits Beach flair to kick things up a notch. There’s edgy creativity at play here, with more than a few tastes to bring you back for more. If you’re in the hood, it could be your go-to seafooder. Open 5:30 p.m. until late. Details at supermarine.ca.
Cheese please
Thirty years ago it was next to impossible to buy decent cheese in Vancouver. That all changed in the mid-1980s when Alice Spurrell and her daughter Allison set up a small specialty cheese business at the corner of 10th and Alma. The space was tiny, but it didn’t matter — people lined up outside the door. Today, Les Amis du Fromage has grown to two busy (and spacious) stores on the East and West Side. “Alice ‘n Allison” have not only nurtured a generation of cheese aficionados but also transformed a restaurant scene where a cheese plate was once as rare as proverbial hens teeth. Head cheese Alice announced her retirement this week, handing the reins fully to Allison and partner Joe Chaput. Vancouver cheese lovers (and restaurateurs) owe them all a huge debt of gratitude.
Belly’s Budget Best
Spier Chenin Blanc 2014 (Western Cape)
It’s tough to beat this food-friendly drop for value. First come aromas of apple, pear and citrus, followed by good acidity and leesy viscosity, with an edge of citrus zest. Think goat cheese or white Spring salmon. $12.69 (before taxes), 91 pts.
