There’s something reassuring about restaurants that endure the passage of time — and, at least in Vancouver’s case, the rigours of development. Such is the case at Bodega on Main, the reincarnation of La Bodega, which earlier this year shuttered the Hornby Street premises it had occupied for close to 45 years.
La Bodega was a Spanish outpost on the West Coast, a haven for homesick Spaniards who would meet for tapas, conversation and, of course, to witness epic football encounters between Barça and Réal. Later came the Chateau Madrid, Vancouver’s sole Spanish formal room, though it yielded in time to tapas and informality.
The “new” Bodega (dutifully shorn of its definite article in current vogue) has a strong connection to the old in Paul Rivas, son of Francisco Rivas, who co-founded La Bodega with his friend José Rivas, in 1971.
Lovers of the original will find plenty to cheer about in the new space. Bodega on Main (1014 Main St., 604-565-8815) already benefits from its impressively restored heritage surroundings, with soaring ceilings and plans for a private party room downstairs in what used to be an old pool hall.
There’s also no shortage of familiar faces among the staff, as many stayed on to work in the new restaurant. In fact, if the room feels similar, it’s likely because many of the furnishings were saved from demolition, including the giant, dark oak bar and backdrop, still the heart of the room, and even the washroom doors.
The original La Bodega hailed from a time when actual Spanish tapas were very much a novelty. Happily, they’re still the backbone of the menu here, with a wealth of old favourites reintroduced, including spicy chorizo a la Parrilla, albongigas, gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns), gazpacho and calamares fritos.
Wines are dutifully Spanish — and well-priced — such as the quaffable Segura Viudas Cava, $30 a bottle, or $7 glass. Do some digging and you’ll even find a worthy Torres brandy to finish things up, also $7.
Even though it had only been open a few days the night I visited, the place was packed, including more than a few regulars from the old location. All of which goes to show that despite the inevitable pace of change, there’s still plenty room for tradition done right. Salud!
Italian job
Speaking of familiar faces and old traditions, Baccano Osteria & Bar has emerged in the friendly heart of Cornwall Mews, in the former Smoking Dog space once ruled by Jean Claude Ramond.
The room has benefitted from a much-needed facelift, and now enjoys a cleaner, more classic, European feel with marble and mahogany details, and a more substantial bar — with cocktails to match.
Running the show is Patrick Corsi, whose aim to offer a laid back, local haunt — kind of an Italian equivalent to “le Chien” — is already succeeding. The name means “ballyhoo,” or words to that effect. Fun is what it’s all about, says Corsi.
On the menu there are plenty of plates for easy sharing, including sottaceti — crostini featuring house-made pickles such as cucumber and saffron, heirloom squash, or cauliflower and sultana. Pasta offerings vary, but one fave is the mainstay spaghetti puttanesca (which has made the trip from Lonsdale’s Corsi Trattoria), as well as other classics such as linguini vongole and tagliatelle salsicia. Mains range from fresh Lingcod with parsnip purée, fava beans and parsnip chips ($27) to roast chicken with warm potato salad and pickled mustard seeds.
Located at 889 West First Ave. at Cypress, 778-379-6920. Open for dinner nightly, lunch weekdays.
Belly’s Budget Best
• Domaine Gayda Grenache 2013
Easy-drinking Languedoc red invites with peppery and red berried notes before a gently spicy and plush palate with a good close. Look for the Flying “Free Spirit” label. Value priced at BCLS, $12.99, through October. 89 pts.
info@hiredbelly.com
