Fads come and go in the dining world, which has a justly earned reputation for being fickle. Trends often appear as a reinvention — an homage to the way things used to be done, which may explain why the rediscovery of “nose to tail” cuisine is still going strong.
Interest blossomed with the publication of Jennifer McLagan’s Odd Bits. While her original best seller Fat signalled a return to traditional cooking styles, Odd Bits was a more specific, unabashed praise of the entire animal, with a wealth of recipes spanning everything from ox tail to offal.
At a recent dinner, one of only two of its kind held yearly at Campagnolo Roma (2297 East Hasting St., 604-569-0456), chef Joachim Hayward went “whole hog,” so to speak. Hayward, who honed his skills with Campagnolo owner and chef Robert Belcham, trotted out an intriguing and delicious assortment of plates for “Quinto Quarto” — a multi course dinner honouring the entire animal.
A packed house dined on everything from veal tongue to crispy pig ears and pork jowl jerky, all paired with craft brews from nearby Powell Street Brewery.
Hayward showed a deft hand in dealing with the intricacies of offal (organ meats) — not surprising considering he and Belcham butcher several whole beasts a month and make use of almost every part.
Highlights from this dinner ranged from the veal tongue with tuna belly mayonnaise and lemon (matched with the suitably named Powell Street Ode to Citra Pale Ale) to crispy lamb brains with amaretto soaked roasted dates, and smoked bison shanks with beets, pistachio and balsamico, both paired with the brewery’s rich and dark Dive Bomb Porter.
To name only these highlights is erroneous, as every taste served in this whole beast salute was delicious. My tablemates were equally impressed.
Hayward says the popularity of nose to tail continues to grow. In fact, it’s only the challenge of finding quality animals (such as the Sloping Hills pigs) that precludes holding more dinners. Once a month, he’ll source more unusual “odd bits,” such as lamb brains, which can be found from better halal butchers in town.
If the taste for such morsels is an acquired one, then it’s certainly growing, says the chef, who notices new people at his dinners who “want to push the envelope a bit.”
If you’re inclined to expand your dining horizons, check in with Capagnolo Roma for their next dinner or monthly menu tweak, which usually includes at least one more unusual offering from chef Hayward.
Friends of Earls
I’m guessing you won’t be finding a whole lot of pig ears or braised pork tongue on Earls menus any time soon. However, the chain has adopted a novel way of broadening its horizons by establishing a collective with luminaries such as chefs Dawn Doucette, Hamid Salimian, David Wong and Tina Fineza.
The chefs contribute ideas and fine tune them in Earls test kitchen, resulting in items such as Bibimbap Korean Rice Bowl (Wong), and roasted Moroccan salmon with Persian Cauliflower (Salimian).
Dishes will launch in flagship Earls on March 25 and be offered across the board by June.
Belly’s Budget Best
• Monasterio de Las Viñas Reserva 2006
Spain has a rep for delivering drinkable, wallet-friendly wines with some age and a degree of interest. This blend of Granacha, Tempranillo and Cariñena yields hints of black fruit on the nose followed by a full bodied palate with approachable tannins, good acidity, some spicy notes and even a touch of mineral. BCLS $14.99, 89 pts.
