Skip to content
Join our Newsletter
Sponsored Content

The Hired Belly: Conscientious coffee, marmite madness

Higher grounds Vancouverites are a caffeine-crazed breed. But we’re also choosy about which beanery we frequent and what we elect to sip there.

Higher grounds

Vancouverites are a caffeine-crazed breed. But we’re also choosy about which beanery we frequent and what we elect to sip there.

That thought occurred to me the other day as I looked around Main Street’s 49th Parallel, which was comfortably busy in the rainy, late winter afternoon.
Part of the appeal lies in the laid-back, lounge-like surroundings — and that Lucky’s Doughnuts is here. But there’s also good taste at play, matched with a sense of purpose that goes far beyond getting the roast and the grind right.

Driving a part of the coffee program is a unique Direct Trade initiative that’s helping transform the lives of a collective of Honduran farmers. The company’s green coffee buyer, Laura Perry, says that by working closely with the Santa Barbara region farmers, they’ve been able to make a huge difference.

“We focus on high end specialty coffee, rather than commodity coffee,” Perry explains. That means they pay a lot more for their beans — $4.17 — almost four times as much as the current commodity price of around $1.05 a pound. That isn’t even close to what the farmer needs to survive, she says.

Perry travels extensively to work closely with producers around the coffee world and has in-depth knowledge of the challenges they face during the growing season and harvest. The resulting quality allows the company to pay a premium price that’s above more well known enhanced programs, such as Fair Trade, which, while laudable, doesn’t address quality.

Not only has the Direct Trade project helped the farmers to significantly upgrade their equipment, it’s also enabling them to pay their pickers ahead of the harvest, which is helping to transform their standard of living.

“It’s really exciting to be able to work with people through their first steps of becoming premium producers,” Perry says. “You can sense the pride and see a marked difference in culture compared to other areas.”

You can taste the Santa Barbara farmers’ beans in 49th Parallel’s Holiday Celebration Blend, a smooth, well-rounded, slightly nutty blend currently featured in the store’s cupping and roasting
demonstrations.
 

Stock it to me

In the quest for some bookish stocking stuffers, I found myself at Books to Cooks (1470 West Second Ave.), where a couple of small tomes grabbed my attention, including The MacSween Haggis Bible ($11), which you could give just in time for Burns Night. While The Marvellous Miniature Marmite Cookbook ($13.95) may not be for everyone (Marmite scrambled eggs?), there may be some takers. On the other hand, I can think of more than a few ham-fisted teens (and even the occasional adult) who’d be well served by a copy of Tiffany’s Table Manners for Teenagers ($19.95). This clever little guide to good manners was written by Walter Hoving, the former chairman of Tiffany’s 50 years ago.

Crab-tastic

We’ve long been fans of Maenam (1938 West Fourth Ave.), but chef Angus An’s new seafood offerings take things to the next level. You’ll have to order a day ahead for the likes of eight-spice crispy sea bream or black pepper whole Dungeness crab.

Belly’s Best

• Red Racer ESB
Assertive but not overly hopped Extra Special Bitter from Surrey’s Central City is the perfect winter mouthful, richly textured, malty and respectably bitter. Try it with tourtière. And if you’re between the Port Mann and Patullo bridges, be sure to check out their impressive new brewery and distillery.

[email protected]