Walk into Commune Café (1002 Seymour St. at Nelson, 604-681-2151) and you can't help but be struck by its clean lines, sparse décor and austere personality. But it doesn't take long to pick up on the buzz at the "quick food" eatery, one of a growing number putting their energies more into what's actually on the plate--and how it gets there--as opposed to the usual trappings of decor and service.

Commune Café is bold beyond its striking grey and white decor, augmented with flashes of red at every turn--right down to the smart, crimson chairs.

This popular, all-day, cafeteria-styled haunt is winning converts by the week for a number of reasons from its quick, creative and healthily conceived cuisine and free Wi-Fi to the smart selection of locally made ciders and other sips. Good B.C. wineries are at the fore and--take note wine gougers--fairly priced. You can get a serious glass of Tantalus Riesling for $9 or Herder Meritage for $8. We also like the focus on well made beer such as Central City's Red Racer IPA. In fact, even the soft drinks are all Canadian.

We recently checked out Commune's busy brunch and were rewarded with perfectly soft poached eggs over a tasty jumble of chorizo, with peas, spinach, tomatoes and patatas bravas.

Manager Andrew Stern says the café works hard to be as organic and sustainable as possible, concentrating mainly on free-range meats and organic produce, and only Ocean Wise seafood, as well as using environmentally friendly cleaning supplies and compostable take-out containers.

And the attention to detail shows. Local shrimp, tuna, wild salmon and sablefish rule the seafood options, which include an excellent wild smoked salmon sandwich with all the trimmings ($7). A robust, roast pumpkin soup is the perfect winter warmer, while more substantial plates range from Berkshire pork belly with braised red cabbage and apple sauce ($13) to hearty braised beef with red wine jus and creamed mashed potatoes ($15).

A prime lure, the central communal table is in constant play, while those seeking a more separate setting can opt for the comfortable window booths.

Regional, sustainable, local--more than buzzwords, they've ignited a culinary revolution and become a mantra by which to live for several restaurateurs, and more than a few poseurs as almost everyone these days likes to lay claim to the philosophy. However, those who really want to walk the walk, sign up with Green Table. It's a Vancouver-based organization that works with restaurants to ensure every step, from ingredients to dishwashing and take-out, is executed in the most sustainable manner possible.

Even the decor comes under scrutiny. Witness Commune Café's smart, natural cork, domed lampshades that cast a warm glow over evening tables.

Who else is among the city's greenest restaurants? It might just surprise you. O'Doul's rethought its supply systems from top to bottom so much so that in 2009 it won both WHERE Magazine's Green Table Award and WHERE's Ocean Wise Sustainable Seafood Award. And Cactus Club employs a top down "Green First" philosophy in all of its outlets.

Commune's philosophy of offering soundly sourced, healthy ingredients at fair prices was once seen as the wave of the future, but for many these days, it's the only way to eat. Commune Café may be smartly trimmed in proletariat red, but underneath it's decidedly hipster green.

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