Is Yaletown's wane Gastown's wax? A shift is afoot in Vancouver's downtown dining scene, as the action shifts from Yaletown's not-long-ago booming loading docks to an increasingly gentrified, less gritty Gastown.

The city's original heritage district now sports a wide variety of affordable dining.

- Sea Monstr Sushi (55 Powell St., 604-681-2144). The upstart newcomer that's a chopstick's toss from Gassy Jack is more diner than sushi emporium. The space is barely wide enough to accommodate a line of slim sushi chefs, eight or so seats at the stainless steel bar and three tables--large by comparison--in back.

At lunchtime, the room fills up fast--and "we've only got the bar available" soon becomes a familiar refrain.

Never mind. The food comes quickly once ordered from the concise, one-pager list. A change from your typical sushi menu, the food here is straight to the point, well thought out and adeptly executed.

Flavours are as fresh and lively as the welcome. Lunchtime combos yield excellent miso soup in a wooden bowl, a "mini" though still filling portion of chicken or beef teriyaki and rice; and a small but well organized sampling of various sushi pieces. Our California roll was moist and sensibly sized, and tuna, salmon and prawn nigiri ultra clean tasting.

A necessity no doubt, the place is run with clockwork precision from the manager's roaming iPad, which, thankfully needs no counter space.

Total damage before taxes: $10.

- If Sea Monstr is all about sushi, aptly monikered Meat and Bread (370 Cambie St., 604-566-9003) is a carnivore's delight. And it's equally impressively run. Why don't more restaurants understand most people make up their mind about a place in the first 20 seconds of walking in? It's easy to be lured by the bustle of this butcher-like joint, which offers a prompt welcome, along with a brief explanation of the daily specials and how things work.

It's simple: You line up in front of the guy making the city's best sandwiches and instantly start to drool, which is why there's a glass cover. By the time you get there, he says, "Porchetta and Salsa Verde?" and you likely say, "You bet," or words to that effect, as he carves another impossibly tender portion off the herb-wrapped roast pork.

When you bite into it, the crunch of the crackling is echoed by the perfect crust on the panini. Serious eating. Of course, you might also fall for the equally satisfying chipotle chicken sandwich with all the trimmings, or the meatballs, or the grilled cheddar.

Another nice touch are the smart wines, such as Sperling Riesling, Sea Cider and Blue Buck beer.

Doing "simple" well is never as easy as it looks. Get it wrong and you'll quickly be seen to under deliver. But these guys appreciate the value of understated quality--from the meat, the plain boards (with just a dab of mustard and sambal for garnish) that serve as plates to the minimalist space, with its yards of white tiles, impressive inlaid herringbone counter and tongue-in-cheek bric-a-brac. The antique punching bag and gloves are great, giving it a Rocky-ish touch. Geist and New Yorker magazines available for reading are an added plus.

Ruling it all--and adding the final dimension--is the communal table. It's the vortex of this busy space, which is a great spot to mix and mingle, or just hang out with a side of life's little dramas.

What these places have in common is they're clean, well run and unpretentiously courteous; they don't waste time; and the food is delicious and affordable. No wonder they're popular.

Add to that The Charles Bar (136 West Cordova, 604-568-8040) with its good eats under the "W" and private flat screens for catching a Canucks game, and Brioche Bakery Café (401 West Cordova, 604-682-4037) and its inventive Italian, with great scratch soups and more. Where there was little before, there's now no shortage of good Gastown eating.

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