The move to sustainable seafood continues to gather momentum here and abroad. If you've been to Seattle, chances are you've seen those crazy fishmongers at Pike Place tossing the fish around. Well, the big news this week (via the Seattle Times) is that the Pike Place Fish Market is about to go entirely sustainable. No more monkfish, Russian king crab or wild steelhead. And no more Styrofoam shipping boxes. The changes are sweeping--and challenging. We're wondering who will be the first officially declared all-sustainable fishmonger on Granville Island.

On the local scene, the surprise Sustainable Seafood winner at this year's WHERE Vancouver's Where to Dine Awards was Grouse Mountain's Observatory Restaurant, whose entire menu is Ocean Wise--meaning that no seafood leaves chef Dino Gazzola's kitchen that isn't a sustainably fished species.

The other mainly sustainable restaurant that's recently caught our attention is Fishworks on Lower Lonsdale ("LoLo" to the cool set), 91 Lonsdale Ave., 778-340-3449.

Here's a room that's virtually under the radar (except in North Van), but we guarantee that it won't be for long. The high-ceilinged, heritage space is quickly gaining a reputation for its smartly sourced, detail driven and affordable plates. Highlights of our lunch ranged from a superb lobster bisque (matched with Stag's Hollow's well-balanced 2008 Viognier Marsanne) to a delicious Queen Charlotte halibut fillet, generously portioned and cooked to moist perfection, served with a daring but sensibly spiced, roasted jalapeno, blackberry and tomato ragout, and served on a mascarpone risotto cake.

Owner-chef Shallaw Kadir obviously has a knack for getting seafood right. He's also an adventurous chef who doesn't mind pushing the envelope. Add to the fact that this cosy spot is almost entirely Ocean Wise. The well chosen and affordably priced wines and seductive desserts are more reasons to head back soon. Plus, who knew that halibut and jalapeno could pair so well with Stag's Hollow's powerful, smoky and peppery 2008 Syrah?

To sample some of the best Ocean Wise cuisine in the city, treat yourself to the June 11 Night at the Aquarium--widely hailed as one of the year's best events--where you can party the night away with tastes from 14 Ocean Wise stars, including Tojo, Josh Wolfe (Coast) and C restaurant's Robert Clark--the man who kickstarted the whole process in 2005. Tickets available from nightattheaquarium.org or by calling 604-659-3527.

Clark has been the driving force behind Ocean Wise. He was the first to encourage many of his peers to take up the Ocean Wise challenge, which he sees as being crucial to the survival of most local fisheries. He also works with Bamfield Community Huu ay aht Abalone Project, which is now able to occasionally supply C with that once all-but-extinct species.

For a relatively young program, it's reassuring to see the success of the Vancouver Aquarium initiative. And you have to wonder how long it will be before it's socially unacceptable for any restaurant worth its salt not to be serving sustainably sourced seafood species.

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BELLY'S BUDGET BEST

- Quails Gate Rose 2009

Made from 100 per cent estate- grown Gamay. Vibrant red fruit on top with a strawberry-toned palate, juicy acidity and a clean, lengthy, vinous end. One of the best. Could be a summer staple. BCLS, VQA $14.99.