"2016 has the potential to be a very interesting vintage for BC," proclaimed master of wine (MW), Barbara Philip at last week's media preview.
Until last year, 2015 saw the earliest start to the growing season ever recorded in British Columbia. 2016 took this to another level with warm spring temperatures, which encouraged fast and furious growth.
"There were even growing degree days in March," exclaims Rhys Pender MW, winegrower and owner of Little Farm Winery, when referring to temperatures above 10C that encourage budburst.
"It was almost frightening," adds Taylor Whelan winemaker at CedarCreek Estate Winery.
He, like others, was concerned that a sudden temperature drop would kill the delicate young shoots, which would have severely affected crop levels. Thankfully, all let out a collective sigh of relief.
Weather-wise, it initially looked like growers were in for a repeat of the hot 2015 vintage. However, 2016 turned out to be a very different story. By the end of June, it cooled down and was unusually moderate into July and August. While it may not have been conducive to drinking rosé on the patio, it appears to have been very beneficial for the wines when the warmer weather returned mid-August through September, and the result was a long, cool growing season.
Not having a long enough season is one of the struggles in BC's extreme climate. While sugar ripeness isn't usually a problem, "it takes time to develop complexity of aromas," explains Philip.
"This year we got awesome flavour accumulation before we reached sugar ripeness," adds Whelan.
Pender, who picked his Riesling 26 to 30 days later than in 2015, enthuses, "we got this bonus flavour development time."
Danny Hattingh, winemaker at Fort Berens in Lillooet is equally pleased with Pinot Gris, which tends to gain sugar (thus potential alcohol) very quickly.
"With the longer season, we were able to ripen it properly and get it in before the sugars were too high."
As for the big reds in the south Okanagan, the long growing season was needed.
Spring has sprung, and our new vintages have arrived at Village Liquor Store in West Vancouver! #cheers #winetime LaStella Winery pic.twitter.com/N66G9yVSEZ
— Le Vieux Pin (@LeVieuxPin) March 20, 2017
"We're very happy but 2016 did present some challenges," admits Jonathan McLean, assistant winemaker at Le Vieux Pin.
The vintage also produced high yields, which slowed down maturity especially during the cooler summer temperatures. McLean calls the early start "a saving grace."
We'll have to wait until at least the fall to try BC's 2016 reds. In the meantime, as we move into the (hopefully) warm months ahead, there should be plenty of whites and rosés offering ripe, pure and intriguing aromas and flavours, vibrant acidity and balanced alcohol from this “very interesting” vintage.
The following are highlights from the preview. Note that not all have been released yet.
2016 Bella, 'Cavada' Gamay, Sparkling Rosé, Brut Natural $27 winery direct
A traditional method sparkler made from Naramata Bench Gamay, the Cavada is pretty and delicately floral with hints of strawberry and red currants. Very refreshing and light on its feet.
2016 Little Farm Winery, Chardonnay, Similkameen Valley BC VQA $26 winery direct
A complex mix of bread dough, apples and cashew meal, this textured, sappy and savoury Chardonnay has plenty of freshness and minerality.
2016 Fort Berens Estate Winery, Pinot Gris, BC VQA $17.99 winery direct
Pear and vanilla bean on the nose with apricot piping up on the palate. The backbone is steely, but there is a flattering creamy texture that adds a layer of intrigue.
2016 CedarCreek Estate Winery, Riesling, Okanagan Valley BC VQA$15.99 winery direct
Exuberantly aromatic with mandarin sorbet and peach. Light but intense, it starts sweet and finishes tangy. That judicious residual sugar is needed to balance out the zippy acidity.
2016 Le Vieux Pin Winery, 'Vaïla' BC VQA $23.99 winery direct
This dry Pinot Noir rosé expresses red cherry and blood orange nuances. Full, fleshy and structured, it demands food.
Prices exclusive of taxes.
