Before arriving to northern B.C. I thought I’d write about all of my exploits, a little bit about the natural beauty and maybe about something new and exciting. What I didn’t count on was how much this rugged land and its people would pull me in. It’s simply impossible not to write about the region and its residents without saying how spectacular it is.
Nestled between the mountains of the Skeena River and the Kitwanga Valley, the Kispiox Valley cradles swamps, five rivers and a chain of crystal-clear lakes. For centuries, its chilly waters have provided a perfect home for the world’s largest strain of wild steelhead and salmon. Its mountainous backdrop is surrounded by a mossy forest playground for grizzly and black bears.
The first evening after a day of rafting and exploring my surroundings, I sat quietly on the deck of my room at the Bear Claw Lodge, an eco-friendly cedar lodge featuring authentic totem poles and art work from famed aboriginal artists including Roy Henry Vickers. It has eight guest rooms all with handcrafted beds and no televisions.
I listened to the sound of the Kispiox River as it flowed past me and imagined what it must have been like for the pioneer men and women who came here in the late 1800s as they braved the elements to homestead in the harsh, sometimes unforgiving landscape.
My odyssey to the northern interior began when I caught a flight to Smithers. From there it was a 90-minute drive through stunning vistas and dusty back roads.
We stopped for lunch in Old Hazelton at the Boat’s Soup and Juice Bar located in a riverboat replica on the banks of the Skeena River.
This quaint town is set amongst the backdrop of the Roche de Boule mountain range. Also dubbed the Seven Sisters, the mountains are magnificent.
Along the way to our destination, we crossed the old Hagwilget Bridge that crosses the canyon on our way to the Kispiox River.
We stopped at the Ksan Historical Village and Museum located near the ancient village of Gitanmaax, where the Bulkley and Skeena rivers flow into each other. For centuries, this was an important fishing site and transportation hub. This is a replica of the ancient village the Gitxsan people lived in. You can take a guided tour and learn all about their sacred ceremonies and everyday lives.
In the afternoon, we arrived at the Bear Claw Lodge just in time to unpack before we meet our hosts in the dining room. For three nights, over wine and locally inspired cuisine, I listened to Joy and Gene Allen recount colourful tales about the brave men and women of the north. It’s clear that they delight in telling their guests about this land they love so much. If you’re lucky enough to ever join them, ask to hear about the story of Lillian Alling, a 25-year-old mysterious Russian immigrant. In 1926, she set out to New York but got homesick. A year later, with no money, she set out on foot to hike across the continent, ending up in the wilderness of B.C.
This first morning, I met up with Danielle Bradford, a 21-year-old who doubles as guide and waitress, for a hike. There are endless trails to choose from. Danielle and I followed the Kispiox River as it weaves by forest, mountains and ranchland. We passed an old trappers’ cabin, dubbed Beartail, and Danielle told me it’s where I will stop for lunch during my horseback ride later in the day.
When I was a teenager, I was fearless astride a horse. But after a nasty fall in my 20s, you couldn’t get me back on a horse if my life depended on it. Over the years, I’ve cured myself of my fear of horses.
However, I didn’t count on Moose. Moose is big and stubborn and often wouldn’t heed to my demands. My lame attempts at steering him away from the bushes and the branches of the powerful spruce and the thirsty cedars were greeted with a full stop. No matter, riding through rivers and unspoiled forested territory, with a picnic lunch in the Beartail was a wonderful adventure not to be missed. Somehow, over the four-hour ride, Moose and I bonded.
Next up was snorkelling. I’ve snorkeled in Hawaii, Nicaragua and Mexico and always marveled at the sheer variety of colourful native fish I would get to see up close. When I heard that I could snorkel with the salmon — well, that takes snorkeling to a whole different level!
From July to October, these rivers are teaming with salmon, some weighing as much as 60 pounds. Jim Allen, our guide and owner of Kispiox Fishing Company, assured me I’ll acclimatize pretty quickly. I went in very gingerly as the water is freezing. However, the speed in which the salmon move and the rainbow-like colour of their scales as they hit the sunlight, make it reason enough to jump into the frigid waters.
P.S. I suggest you wear a wetsuit.
