It was a lunch I’ll never forget.
Taking part in a culinary and cultural tour of Fiji with a group of travel writers, we had so far been treated to many memorable dishes created by the best chefs on the island. But it was the simple lunch of watermelon, fish, bread, corn, papaya and juice served on the floor of the tiny community centre in the village of Koronisagana I treasure most.
During lunch we sat cross-legged on the floor and ate with our hands while the men of the village played guitar and sang. Clearly curious, dozens of wide-eyed children peered up at us as they wriggled politely in place, just waiting for a sign from an elder that would free them to head back outside to play in the morning sun.
Those same children had followed us or peeked out at us from behind doorways as we toured the village earlier. Despite the obvious poverty, it’s apparent these children are happy and much loved. The economic plight of not only Koronisagana, but most rural villages in Fiji, is in vast contrast to the luxury resorts that dot the Coral Coast.
That’s something local tour company owner Jay Whyte is working to change. We visited Koronisagana as part of a Sigatoka River Safari tour, through which Whyte has partnered with 12 rural villages to assist with much-needed tourism development. To that end, partial proceeds of each tour go directly to these villages for various projects and initiatives, including scholarships, clothing, footpaths, church construction, school supplies and financial donations.
Speaking of donations, we were also tasked to choose an “elder” from our group to present the chief of the village with some kava leaves as a gift of thanks. During a welcome ceremony, the chief used the kava to make a tea infamous for its sedative and anaesthetic properties. And while some members of our tour refused the drink, I decided the opportunity to visit a remote village in Fiji, only attainable by boat, and drink a cup of kava offered up by a village chief might only come along once in a lifetime. Let’s just say, what happens in Koronisagana stays in Koronisagana. Truth be told, besides feeling a sudden urge to nap, kava can’t exactly be described as a party drink.
So as not to burden each village, Sigatoka River Safari visits a different location each day of the week with villages hosting once a week for six months. They visit six villages during the dry season from May to October and another six from November to April. The tour company has been recognized for its efforts by winning numerous tourism and conservation awards.
Our trip began earlier in the day when our mini bus picked us up from our resort, Outrigger on the Lagoon Fiji, through which our excursion was planned. Once we reached the start point of the tour, we were each handed a lifejacket, to keep us safe, and a sarong, to wear as a sign of respect to the villagers.
Under a brilliant blue sky our group boarded custom-made jet boats for the spectacular trip along the Sigatoka River, which winds through a valley of the same name. Along the way we waved to fishermen relaxing along the river’s banks, spotted numerous types of water fowl and took in the gorgeous landscape often referred to as the “salad bowl of Fiji” because of its lush vegetation.
During our tour of the village, the chief blessed each of us by marking our faces with white powder. That powder, combined with the sweat we all suffered under the hot Fijian sun, left us looking more than a lot bedraggled by the time we headed back to the river for our return trip. But, as our tour guide mysteriously assured us, it was a look that wasn’t to last long.
Once settled back onto our boat, the driver hit the throttle and we sped down river, the wind cooling our faces and tangling our hair. It was then our driver spontaneously yelled, “Hold on,” and turned the jet boat into what can only be described as a floating donut. And sure enough, as a huge wave of water splashed over us the remains of the white powder and grime that had previously caked our faces was washed away. The fact we were each now a sopping mess was lost in the shrieks of surprised laughter we all enjoyed as the boat completed its turn.
sthomas@vancourier.com
twitter.com/sthomas10
