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Whatcom County offers so much more than malls

BELLINGHAM While Portland, Ore., has gained what can almost be considered a cult following, its closer cousin Bellingham, Wash. is enjoying a resurgence of its own thanks to a growing craft beer, food and culture scene.

BELLINGHAM
While Portland, Ore., has gained what can almost be considered a cult following, its closer cousin Bellingham, Wash. is enjoying a resurgence of its own thanks to a growing craft beer, food and culture scene.

And while it’s certainly not all Portland-style hipsters flocking to this waterfront city, located an hour from Vancouver, we certainly saw enough plaid shirts and beards to be sure they’re paying attention. This was the first time my partner and I had ventured past the Bellingham Airport on our way to Vegas or Hawaii or Bellis Fair Mall in search of bargains  to check out the city’s downtown core. And to say we were pleased is an understatement.

For our weekend of exploration we set up base camp at the Best Western Plus Lakeway Inn, which was not only central to everything we had planned, but also takes Canadian money at par for its rooms and throws in breakfast for good measure. The hotel also offers seniors discounts.

This Best Western is home to Poppes360, which, as we discovered upon arrival Thursday night, is famous for its handcrafted cocktails created by award-winning mixologists. The lounge is so popular, it placed first in the “cocktails” and “bar and lounge” categories in the 2014 Best of the Northwest Awards. It’s also indicative of just how sophisticated the food and drink scene is becoming in Bellingham. Even after a weekend spent largely eating and drinking, it was clear we had barely scratched the surface when it comes to the city’s food scene. Be sure to check out Old Town Café for breakfast and brunch, which was packed the day we visited.

The buckwheat pancakes I tried, and loved, were made from flour hand-milled that morning on site. The café has an emphasis on local ingredients and enough vegetarian and vegan options to accommodate a crowd, despite anyone’s dietary restrictions.

We also checked out the Bagelry, a Bellingham institution opened 30 years ago by transplanted New Yorker Ken Ryan and wife Marguerite. Despite the impromptu visit, Ryan immediately invited me for a tour of the back of house where hundreds of bagels are made fresh all day, every day. We took a bag to go, the contents of which made my previously non-bagel eating partner an enthusiastic covert. (We froze some and he’s actually eaten a couple every weekend since that visit.)

Ken Ryan opened the Bagelry
Ken Ryan at the Bagelry in Bellingham. Photo Sandra Thomas

The fact we visited Bellingham just days before St. Patrick’s Day added a real sense of celebration to the city, and we enthusiastically joined the green-clad throngs lined up to take in the annual parade, a sign that for all its growth the city still maintains and clearly enjoys some small town traditions. And in keeping with tradition worldwide, St. Patrick’s Day also meant the local brewpubs and watering holes were packed with partiers. Boundary Bay Brewery is a popular spot with locals and visitors due to its tap room and family-friendly bistro. The fact it’s housed in a restored 1922 warehouse only adds to the brewery’s charm.

Bellingham is also home to the Mount Baker Theatre, housed in another refurbished, vintage building and adjacent to a popular eatery we checked out, The Table, which specializes in home-style Italian food and a select wine list, which after a long day of exploration was more than welcome. Kids and adults will definitely want to check out the Spark Museum, which my partner, a retired engineer, was enthralled with. Personally, I was more interested in checking out the many independent retailers that call the downtown core home. And, despite our weakened Canadian dollar, I still found enough bargains to justify some serious shopping.

So while Bellingham may not yet be considered as “weird” as all things Portlandia, its growing arts, culture and food scene make it ideal for a great weekend getaway or longer holiday, whether you’re a plaid-clad hipster or baby boomer from Vancouver.

FAIRHAVEN
“Just turn right.”

That was the phrase we heard over again from Fairhaven locals in response to our admission we’d only previously driven past the town on our way to Chuckanut Drive.

It didn’t take long for us to realize the error of our ways, particularly during a tour of the town led by local historian “Dirty Dan,” a.k.a. Jim Rich. Who knew Fairhaven had such an interesting and scandalous past? Visitors can also enjoy a self-guided tour of the town using readily available maps and pamphlets, but I highly recommend teaming up with Rich, who supplied us with anecdotes, gossip, ghost stories and tales likely not found in any guide book.

Dirty Dan, a.k.a. Jim Rich
Dirty Dan, a.k.a. Jim Rich. Photo: Sandra Thomas

Points of interest are marked by paving stones offering snippets of history, including these gems, “Site of Sam Low’s Opium Den, 1904,” “Policeman Phil DeFries shot at 23 times 1899 — 1905,” or “Site of Fairhaven Pharmacy 1890.” The reason there’s no end date on the stone dedicated to the pharmacy is that it’s still open.

And while the pharmacy has changed hands several times over the decades, one of the early owners has set up a quirky museum in the basement. We were lucky enough to visit on a day when retired pharmacist and historian Gordy Tweit was holding court to a group of enthralled baby boomers home for a class reunion.

Tweit’s collection is extensive and ranges from old syringes and pills to hair curlers and vintage driers to maps, postcards and magazines.

Rich also took us to Fairhaven Rug Gallery, a hole in the wall with an absolutely jaw-dropping collection of Persian and exotic rugs. While these masterpieces are pricey, a visit to the store is like stepping back in time and well worth a visit. We also enjoyed a great lunch of fish and chips at Skylark’s Hidden Café where Rich continued to share stories of his home.

Another highlight of our visit was the hour we spent at Village Books, a block-long homage to everything that is wonderful about print. My partner, who honestly only reads factual books about the Second World War, was surprised to find several hardcover volumes he’d never seen before. The price for all three? — $25, a bargain when you consider he typically pays that for one here at home. The town boasts only one hotel, the Fairhaven Village Inn, but has a thriving bed and breakfast industry.

So don’t forget when you’re cruising south along the I5 past Bellingham, “just turn right” at Fairhaven. You won’t be disappointed.

SEMIAHMOO
It seemed fitting that on our first visit to the picturesque Semiahmoo Resort we were driving a brand new Land Rover LR4 on loan for an extended road test.

As we travelled the winding road to the remote resort, the skies opened, the wind picked up and the waves began crashing onto the rocks lining the shore along our drive. Throw in the eagles circling overhead and we could have easily been shooting a commercial for the luxury vehicle. Luxury aside, it was also reassuring to know we not only had four wheel drive to depend on in case of emergency, but that we were so much better protected than we would have been driving my 1986 Nissan Pulsar.

It was also nice to arrive in style to the resort where we enjoyed brunch at Pierside Kitchen. The floor-to- ceiling windows of the restaurant offer breathtaking views of the ocean, Drayton Harbour and the shores of White Rock. On this day, a seal played in the waves just metres from where we enjoyed fresh oysters and shrimp and shared a burger.

We were also given a tour of the resort, which is near completion of a massive renovation project. And while the project means the resort is enjoying a face lift, attention to detail means the nautical and Pacific Northwest look and feel remain entrenched in the fabric of the property.

sthomas@vancourier.com
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