All things Spanish continue to flourish in Vancouver with the recent arrival of Cabrito Tapas and Bebidas (2270 Commercial Dr., 604-620-7636). With its laid back feel, lively atmosphere and more local twists on the menu, Cabrito is perfect for the Drive.
The other week I was lucky enough to be able to sample a wide selection of excellent tastes. Despite its Spanish feel, Cabrito has a strong French connection. Owner-chef Alexandre Carrière had worked at various notable rooms in Europe and here, including lumière and more recently at Le Parisien (now closed).
Carrière’s classical French background (and the fact that he’s familiar with authentic Spanish tapas styles of Madrid and elsewhere) provided the ideal springboard.
Cabrito blends traditional tapas such as roasted Basque chorizo, garlic prawns and smoky patata brava, with more inventive takes, such as fresh beet “tartar”with quail egg as well as lamb “lollipops.” Other great tastes were the queso salad of blue cheese and mixed greens, as well as serious jamon on offer, including Serrano and Iberico de Bellota.
The room is a reborn coffee shop, with a gently industrial feel, exposed ceiling and wide opening “garage door”style front. The bare bone surroundings are nicely balanced by warm wood tables and a stunning mural by Yared Nigussu along one wall.
Wines (and sherries) are for the most part faithfully Spanish and well researched, making this the perfect spot to head for sherry and tapas. Cabritomeans “baby goat,”but there’s none on the menu. You’ll still have to go to Spain to get your suckling goat fix.
Crab attack
Fancy a taste of Dungeness? Siena restaurant has daily fresh crab deliveries right from the boat to buoy its Dungeness Festival, running until March 26. Book in for crab ravioli with smoked salmon cream, crab tagliatelle, crab and saffron risotto, Dungeness and steelhead fritters, and more. Arts Club patrons get 15 per cent off by showing their same day theatre ticket, and all wines are half priced on Mondays. Reserve at eatsiena.comor 604-558-1485.
Brunch hunch
If you ever needed to take the pulse of Vancouver’s dining scene, a good place to start would be Vintners Brunch, the sold out shindig that closes the Vancouver International Wine Festival. Every year there are some interesting results that often come out of left field. (Last year’s winner was pop-up Farm 2 Fork). It’s equally interesting to note how much Asian influenced plates and ingredients have moved into the mainstream, with inventive dishes and pairings.
This year’s giant killer (and there some big names in the room) was Railtown Catering and Café’s sous chef Matthew Koyanagi, whose black rice congee with red wine braised duck —paired with Hahn Family SLH Pinot Noir 2013 —knocked it out of the park.
Coming a close second was ShuRaku’s shrimp and fish ball with dashi espuma, beautifully balanced with Thornhaven Gewurz 14. ARC at Fairmont Waterfront’s chorizo Scotch egg, pork and paprika paired with Gil Tempranillo 2013 placed third.
Belly’s Budget Best
Viña Leyda Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Distinctly Chilean Sauv Blanc from within sight of the Pacific Ocean: Crisp, clean, citrus and tropical fruit with fresh acidity and a juicy end. Great value at BCLS for $13.99. 90 pts.
