If I were the kind of guy who makes New Year’s resolutions, I’m pretty sure I would have broken most, if not all, of them by now.
Yet, we all make mental notes throughout the year such as “I really should try to eat more... fish/kale/grains/chocolate etc. So I was intrigued to see famed chef Alain Ducasse has opted to go “meatless” at his Paris Plaza Athénée — although there’s still plenty of flesh, in the form of seafood.
I did briefly consider the merits. But then realized I’d have to forgo dining at the likes of Bacchus at the Wedgewood, which offers a paramount example of why fine dining — and all things French — is back with a vengeance in Vancouver.
First, there’s the room. Bacchus is one of those place that truly cossets. Walk in and it’s impossible not be seduced — by the colours, the fabrics, the fireplace. (What was once a prized cigar room is now a private dining room. Times change.)
But there’s substance here, in one of the city’s enduring rooms that never fails to reinvent itself. The newest incarnation comes courtesy of recently arrived Relais & Chateaux Grand chef Jonathan Cartwright, who switched coasts after a couple of decades at Kennebunk’s White Barn Inn.
Cartwright’s attention to detail on the plate and creativity with small innuendos of ingredients is superb. The chef works wonders with the likes of venison with savoy cabbage; and Lois Lake Steelhead with scallop, IPA purée and warm bacon, plus a lively shallot vinaigrette.
Beautifully textured and flavourful “Pekin” duck arrives with orzo and forest mushroom, confit risotto. Equally irresistible, a delectable “Textures of chocolate” for dessert.
Smart wine picks roam from B.C. to Burgundy. Think Foxtrot Vineyards Chardonnay with chilled Nova Scotia lobster, or Bouchard Père & Fils Gevrey Chambertin with the Pekin duck. All this and arguably the city’s most romantic room. Just a hunch, but I’d be booking early for Valentine’s.
Doing Dine Out
Speaking of reservations, now the largest event of its kind in Canada, this year’s edition of Dine Out Vancouver is a little over a week away (Jan. 15 to 31) and features hundreds of restaurants with three-course dinners at $20, $30 and $40, plus more than a few lunch offerings. (Taxes, gratuity and beverages extra).
While the focus is still on the (usually) affordable menus and optional B.C. VQA wine parings, the events side of the Dine Out Vancouver Festival continues to grow.
Some more unusual and intriguing options include a Tea Gastronomy Experience, presented by the Urban Tea Merchant, with an eight-course tasting menu matched with a wide variety of teas.
If you’ve been waiting for a chance to catch a deal at the much-celebrated (and pricey) Bauhaus, you’re in luck. Even if it doesn’t fall into the realm of a classic Dine Out “deal,” the Bauhaus “Tribute” series is tempting, as Michelin-starred Chef Stefan Hartmann and team pay homage to Marco Pierre White (Jan. 20 to 22) and to Juan Amador (Jan. 28 to 30).
The $95 dinners, each with a menu inspired by the chef being saluted, includes six courses, taxes, gratuity and ticketing fees — but not beverages.
Other hot tickets range from Vancouver Craft Beer and Food Pairing Tours (several dates) to Side Dishes-Alla Famiglia, which is a chance to experience David Hawksworth’s cuisine but in a more rustic style, with seasonal ingredients served informally in the York Room. For booking and all event details, go to dineoutvancouver.com.
