It’s a curious thing. But the notion of fresh seafood as a Vancouver dining staple has never been as robust a proposition as it should be.
However, there are signs indicating that it’s changing. For instance, Vancouver has its champions of seafood, from former C chef Robert Clark, who now runs the immensely popular Fish Counter, to “Unsung Heroes” promoter Frank Pabst at Blue Water Café, and recent Four Seasons executive chef Ned Bell, who now cooks for Vancouver Aquarium and beyond in the name of all things Ocean Wise.
Interestingly though, the latest purveyor of true “marine cuisine” originates from well outside Vancouver, via Vancouver Island and by extension Washington State.
Recently landed, with a direct line from lease to kitchen, Fanny Bay Oyster Bar & Shellfish Market (762 Cambie St., 778-379-9510) can lay claim to its “tide to table” mantra.
The already hopping, part diner, part fishmonger, down the street from B.C Place, sports a cozy, compact 50-seat dining room and sit-up oyster bar, as well as a bountifully provisioned retail outlet. Here you can avail yourself of pre-shucked oysters, as well as other shellfish, lobster, crab and more, including Hardy Buoys salmon candy, and salmon “paté.” I’m familiar with them all, as I’m a regular patron of the Fanny Bay Seafood shop, located at B.C. Ferries’ Buckley Bay ferry terminus.
Fanny Bay Oysters (the largest shellfish producer in Canada, as well as in the U.S.) is owned by Taylor Shellfish farms, who, aside from their extensive shellfish holdings developed over three decades, also operate three Seattle oyster bars.
Running the Vancouver show is Malindi Taylor and GM Issac Martin del Campo, who in the past has worked at Rodney’s Oyster House and Joe Fortes.
Not surprisingly, you’ll find a full spectrum of fresh shucked oysters daily, including Golden Mantly, Royal Miyagi, Tottens and Kumamoto — as well as a dozen Fanny Bays always on offer for $12.
Good tastes on the broader menu (predominantly Ocean Wise) range from a richly creamed and well bacon-ed New England style clam chowder, crab cakes and salmon burger to two sizes of fresh cod and chips, as well as a hearty Caesar salad with seafood and shellfish add-on options.
Prices are moderate with weekend brunch highlighted by a smoky Hangtown Fry and a trio of Benny’s (crab, salmon or classic). The wine list, dutifully international, with plenty by the glass, offers B.C., French and other seafood-friendly drops. My hunch is the list will evolve, maybe with a sharper pencil in parts. Smart classic cocktails and a handful of good taps, including Big River Brewing’s Fanny Bay Oyster stout complete the picture.
Belly’s Budget Best
Blue Grouse Quill Rosé 2015 (Vancouver Island)
100 per cent Gamay Noir yields medium salmon colour in the glass, lifted red berry notes with a vibrant, dry, gently zesty palate of raspberry and rhubarb wrapped in juicy acidity. A perfect, versatile late summer drop. $17. 90 pts.
