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Get them to the Greek

Forget Retsina, today's Greek wines are tasty, affordable and fl exible
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The unsung kitchen at the Railway Club has a deal of a lunch.

Here's a thought. If we can learn to correctly pronounce "Gewurztraminer," "Cabernet Sauvignon" and "Riesling," then it shouldn't take much to wrap our tongues around "Kretikos," "Nemea" and the slightly more challenging "Moschofilero"-pronounced like the Russian capital.

It's only a matter of practise. And our hunch is that with bargains to spare and improving quality, there's untapped interest in Greek wines.

If you're thinking Retsina, don't even go there. Today's Greek wines are a far cry from the "acquired taste" of those long ago, pine-resin-fuelled nights at Orestes, when it was the hottest ticket in town.

When Christina Boutari, whose forebears founded the Boutari Winery in Naoussa in 1879, whipped through Vancouver last week, we caught up with her at waterside Nu Aegean, for a brief but rewarding tasting that served as a worthy reminder in these wallet-weary times.

But there's more to it than that. While these wines are unique, they're far from esoteric. There's also a romantic, historic connection, in that they come from the cradle of winemaking, from where vines made their way around the world.

Dig around the eastern Mediterranean section of B.C. Liquor Stores (somewhat ignominiously between Italy and Bulgaria) and you will find at least a couple of these value drops.

. 2009 Boutari Kretikos sports floral and stonefruit aromas with a crisp but surprisingly generous palate with vibrant acidity, clove and citrus notes. The name refers to Crete, where it comes from there, and it can also mean a table wine-and it's made with indigenous grapes that you don't need to know how to pronounce. A great food wine. Think oysters, calamari or grilled chicken. $12.99.

. 2009 Boutari Moschofilero. You'll have to look hard to find a more interesting wine for this price. Slightly aromatic and floral, look for stonefruit, crisp acidity and citrus notes with gentle spice and earthy undertones before a lengthy close. Appealingly low alcohol-and highly awarded. Try it with Dungeness crab and lemon butter. $15.95.

. 2008 Boutari Naoussa. From the original winery. Like many valuepriced wines, stick it in a big glass and you'll be surprised. It might even have you thinking about Gamay or Tempranillo. Cherry and floral on top, medium bodied, cherry and chocolate notes with easy tannins and good structure and spicy earthy tones that could have you turning to barbecued chicken or, ideally, grilled lamb chops. $15.99.

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Faster than you can say "Souvlaki," Harry Kambolis has opened another Nu Greek bare bones eatery, this time at 1513 West Broadway and Granville. Grab any one of the above and head home with some excellent Greek take-out.

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Lunch deal of the week: Upstairs and unsung, the Railway Club (579 Dunsmuir St., 604-681-1525) offers a lunchtime haven from noon to 2 p.m. with decent pints in one of Vancouver's rare remaining true pub settings. Go for the salmon burger with the works ($10) and a pint of Driftwood Fat Tug IPA-or any one from a raft of worthy taps.

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