When Joe Fortes Seafood and Chophouse first opened its doors in 1985, seafood in Vancouver restaurants didn’t amount to much. Salmon was smoked, planked and definitely never Pink. Oysters were shucked or angelic on horseback. Chilean Seabass was fine. And the two-martini lunch was still in vogue. And it was still illegal in a restaurant to order a drink without food.
At the time, owners Bud and Dottie Kanke saw the American-style grill as the perfect downtown counterpoint to the Cannery, which was very “West Coast” for its day. Kanke launched the city’s first dedicated oyster bar — and, incidentally, hired the first female oyster shucker — as “Joe’s” quickly made its mark as arguably the city’s most successful restaurant to date.
Fast forward 30 years, a few million bivalves later, and the ever popular, brass and wood-trimmed steak and seafood emporium is still packing them in to its three floors, which include one of the city’s best and most discreet — and winterized — roof decks. The fully covered and heated patio is open now until Dec 20.
Joe’s also set the tone for a level of philanthropy not previously seen in Vancouver, which continues under the watch of new owner David Aisenstat. Proceeds from Joe’s Gala anniversary celebration will benefit the Vancouver Firefighters’ Charitable Society’s East Side Snack program, which distributes more than 30,000 snacks to East Side school children.
In a city notoriously fickle, it’s remarkable how many of those original dishes have made it, in some form, to the 2015 menu. If you really fancy a taste of nostalgia, you’ll want to make a date for lunch between Nov. 16 and 20, when six classic lunchtime items will be offered at 1985 prices. Think shrimp cocktails for $5.95 or a New York steak at $11.95.
Look around town and you’ll find more than a few folks who got their start at Joe Fortes, including chef Emad Jacoub (who also met his leading lady Shannon Bosa there) before striking out on his own to form the immensely successful Glowbal Group.
It’s a vocation
Speaking of even more significant culinary milestones, expect a truly star-studded lineup of alumni as Vancouver Community College (VCC) marks half a century of training many of the city’s most talented chefs, bakers, meat cutters and other hospitality professionals.
A city doesn’t earn the kind of reputation that Vancouver now enjoys as a dining destination by accident. Skills of every kind need to be taught and, equally as important, young people mentored. Few vocational schools match the breadth and depth at VCC.
The “50 Years. 50 Chefs” Gala at Rocky Mountaineer Station (Nov. 17) brings together the likes of Blair Rasmussen, David Hawksworth, Ned Bell, Hamid Salimian, Scott Jeager, David Wong, David Gunawan, Quang Dang, David Robertson, Pino Posteraro, Bruno Marti and others.
The evening promises a wealth of good taste and expertise, including several younger rising stars, such as 18-year-old Leah Patitucci. In her final two months at VCC, she’s already completed her baking training, apprenticed with Hawksworth and scooped the silver in 2015 Skills Canada B.C. competition. Also on the roster, wine pairings from the Naramata Bench Wineries Association. More info at vcc.ca/gala.
Belly's Best
Moreson Miss Molly Bubbly
Here’s a classy sparkler that won’t break the bank. Fruity, citrus, tropical and a definite streak of breadiness make it a worthy fridge friend for the upcoming holidays. BCLS $17.39, 90 pts.
