Ah, street food.
The chance to line up on a sidewalk for the opportunity to eat some roasted chestnuts, pre-boiled (and mass-produced) hot dogs or stale chips. Oh wait, that was five years ago – before Vancouver’s city hall decided that maybe we wouldn’t all die from bubonic plague if we ate a few freshly grilled pork sausages, or had some rare ahi tuna in a taco.
For many decades, hot dogs and chestnuts were the sum of street food in the city. The only exception to the rule was the much-revered JapaDog, launched by Noriki Tamura and his wife in 2005. Tamura managed to get around the vendor restrictions by offering innovative toppings on his hot dogs, such as nori (seaweed), teriyaki sauce, mayo, freshly grated radish, bonito flakes, and other piquant and unusual-for-Vancouver flavours.
As of 2010, however, and thanks to the municipal government’s relaxing on the subject of food vendors and what they can serve to the masses, street food in Vancouver is no longer fodder for jokes from visiting Portland residents.
These trucks, carts and trailers run the gamut from lemonade and crepes to barbecue and tacos. Culturally, they cover more than 20 countries and regions, including Thailand, Vietnam, France, Italy, India, Canada, China, Korea, the Caribbean and the Middle East. In fact, at last count, there were over 100 trucks, carts and other vendors hawking their wares on our city streets.
You can find them on street corners and farmers’ markets, night markets and breweries, and, every Sunday during the summer, at least 20 of them at the Food Cart Fest in Vancouver at Olympic Village and, launching August 2, in Surrey at City Hall Plaza. Some, such as Tacofino, JapaDog, Re-Up BBQ, and Yolks, have become so popular that they have expanded to bricks-and-mortar locations.
The quality is as wide-ranging as the diversity of offerings, but a growing percentage definitely fall into the outstanding category. And, while much depends on personal taste, there’s no denying the passion and dedication that many vendors are showing towards creating stellar dishes from local, sustainable and ethically-sourced ingredients.
If you’re looking for some truly fantastic street food experiences, here are 21 of my personal favourites, chosen not just for the deliciousness of their offerings, but also for the dedication to quality and the overall fun factor involved in eating their food. Find their hours and locations using the local app Vancouver Street Food (StreetFoodApp.com/Vancouver) or on the individual websites.
Hit the streets, people, the food carts are a-comin’.
Aussie Pie Guy
Created by three Vancouverites who had fallen in love with this quintessential Aussie snack during their travels Down Under, Aussie Pie Guy specializes in savoury meat pies made with local, free-range meats, organic/local vegetables and buttery crusts. Try the Trifecta, a hearty mix of beef, double-smoked bacon and aged cheddar in an authentic gravy. Or how about chicken and mushrooms in white wine sauce? There is a sweet apple pie, made with vanilla custard and cinnamon, but it’s the savoury offerings that will have you comingback for thirds.
Blue Smoke BBQ
Life and business partners Wayne and Marsia Hunter are lifelong barbecue aficionados who definitely walk the walk when it comes to supporting local growers and initiatives. They were part of the first community garden in North Vancouver district, source their meats from Two Rivers, and all containers, utensils and wrappings are fully compostable. Oh, and did I mention the meat? Southern-style smoked, pulled chicken is a tender, lush wonder as is the pulled pork in its many sandwich incarnations. Get it in a tortilla or brioche bun, or go gluten-free with a bowl.
Community Pizza
Authentic, Neapolitan pizza has become a local byword of late, but when it comes to food trucks, there is only one place for pie. Community Pizzeria houses an authentic wood-fired pizza oven that produces thin-crust sensations in the requisite 60-90 seconds. Try the mushroom, with grana padano and mozza, no tomato sauce (garlic and basil instead) and seasonal fungi. The crushed meatball is another winner, red onion, oregano, basil and grana padano.
Feastro the Rolling Bistro
Local, seasonal fish tacos, fish and chips, chowders and daily specials like their smoked salmon clubhouse or the outstanding oyster po-boy with grilled prosciutto on toasted brioche make for the occasional long line, but the wait is well paid with a taste of these awesome bites. The seasonal lemonades are another reason to visit, especially the watermelon, which is a recurring favourite.
Fliptop Filipino Fusion
It sounds like bad alliteration, but the food is excellent at Vancouver’s first-ever Filipino food truck. Try the “Pacman” pandesal sliders, citrus-soy marinaded beef with pickled red cabbage, leeks and carrots topped with hoisin mayo in a pandesal (Filipino bun). My heart did a double-take at the Flippin' Adobo “Fili” cheesesteak, but the deep-fried leeks, provolone and smoked chipotle aioli could not be ignored.
Fresh Local Wild
Vancouverites really can’t get enough seafood these days. Chef/owner Josh Wolfe operates the only food truck with its own mobile dine-in patio. And if that’s not enough, the food is wicked good. Wolfe often forages his own chanterelles and other wild ingredients, and is an avid fisherman. The chicken-fried oyster po’boy is reason enough to return, but the fish and chips, in a tempura-style batter with homemade tartare sauce, are what will haunt you.
Guanaco Salvadoran Cuisine
Entirely gluten-free, Guanaco specializes in Salvadoran pupusas and pasteles. Pupusas are thick, handmade corn tortillas that are filled with meat, vegetables, beans and spices. Pasteles are essentially fried corn turnovers filled with beef or chicken. Everything is made by “Mama Ana,” who is the matriarch and head of this family-owned business. Tortillas are made by hand, and are filled with refried beans, deep-fried cassava and a mix of cheeses. Good acidity from some pickled veggies cuts the richness for the perfect lunch on the go.
Holy Perogy
This one definitely speaks to my Jewish-Russian-Ukrainian roots, but you don’t have to be from Eastern Europe to enjoy the endless variety of filled dumplings topped with sour cream, bacon, onions, etc. And the seasonal lemonade is also nothing to sneer at. Try the smoked salmon, cream cheese and potato topped with sour cream and capers, or the Italian, a mozza-parmesan-potato filling topped with tomato-garlic salsa and sour cream.
JJ’s Trucketeria
I’m not sure comfort food was meant to be this healthy. Take JJ’s Fraser Bowl, a rotating medley of local, seasonal veggies dressed up with paneer, brown rice, chickpeas, cilantro, tomato chutney and sour cream. It’s a bowl of goodness that tastes like it’s bad for you, meaning excellent. As for the “panwiches,” these are tasty Filipino pandesals stuffed with the likes of Vietnamese pork balls, Mumbai chicken, or Filipino chorizo, known as longganisa. Match with their weekly fresh fruit drink for something that is delicious and-wonder of wonders – healthy.
Le Tigre
Asian fusion is hot again, and the good guys of Le Tigre are seriously bent on blowing minds with their fun takes on Asian and West Coast classics. Warm Brussel sprout and cauliflower salad with capers, cracked chilies and parmesan is addictive, as are roasted beet fries with plum powder and seven-spice mayo. And, in case you were wondering about the meat, it’s all about the barbecue pulled pork in a steamed bun with a heady sesame slaw, basil, cilantro, green onion and sweet chili bean sauce.
Mom’s Grilled Cheese
It’s just a grilled cheese sammy, right? Think again. Owner Cindy Hamilton is a mom, and has obviously mastered the melted cheese-on-bread medium. Sandwiches are first baked to melt the cheese, then brushed with butter and grilling for nice crustiness. Definitely try the meatloaf version (usually only available on Mondays). Stuffed with garlic and topped with marinara and cheese, it’s the full meal Hungry Man deal. You can also choose your bread and cheese (try olive bread with cheddar), and the roasted tomato soup is always worth a try.
The Reef Runner
The Reef has long been the Caribbean nosh pit for hungry locals, so the launch of their truck, the Reef Runner, was bound to get a lot of hype. In this case, it’s all deserved. The famed Jonny cakes, those sweet, fried balls of dough, are here, as are the Jamaican patties, jerk poutine (try it with the chicken) and the West Indian-style rotis. Plantain chips with jerk mayo are just a bonus.
Re-Up BBQ
The truck is temporarily closed (it was hit by a bus), but the bricks-and-mortar location in New Westminster is worth the long-ish SkyTrain ride. The pulled pork and beef brisket sandwiches are two-fisters that demand every ounce of attention from your palate. Side it with some of the awesome black bean and corn chili for a guaranteed food coma experience.
Roaming Dragon
Ahh, the grandfather of modern Vancouver food trucks. This big red truck was one of the first to launch off the hot dog reservation, and it did so with a pan-Asian bang. Chinese “sliders” feature braised pork belly, pickled cucumbers, green onions and hoisin sauce on a steamed bun. Or try the Korean short rib taco with braised, shredded beef, carrots, shitakes and slaw on a corn tortilla.
Street Meet
Mediterranean-inspired fare made with local ingredients rules the roost here. The grilled lamb burger is one of the best I’ve had, with minted tzatzikiand feta, and the gluten-free mushroom soup is truffled (yes, with black truffle) and creamy. The menu changes frequently, depending on what’s in season and available, which means repeat visits are necessary and desired.
Tacofino
It’s the little Tofino food truck that could. What started as a tiny operation in BC’s surfers’ paradise has become multiple food trucks and one bricks-and-mortar location, with another coming to Blood Alley in Gastown. As the name suggests, tacos are a staple. Vancouver’s “White Lightning” serves a great fish taco, but the chicken karaage is killer, and you can have it in taco or burrito form. Pair with the banana churros and dulce de leche for some savoury-sweet snacking.
Taser Grilled Cheese
It doesn’t have the variety of Mom’s, but the So Gouda is damn fine, with caramelized apples, grilled bacon, gouda (natch) and Havarti, all served with a pickle and some vegetable chips on the side. Or try the Vampire’s Bite, with loads of garlic, sriracha mayo, grilled chicken and aged cheddar on sourdough.
Via Tevere Express
The popular Napoletana pizzeria has long been known for their authentic flavours and handmade crusts. Now, in their two roaming food trucks, it’s all about the Neapolitan saltimbocca, a popular sandwich finished in the wood fire of the pizza oven, and stuffed with prosciutto, fior di latte, fresh mozzarella, arugula and basil mayo. Or, go vegetarian with the Caprese, there’s really no wrong choice here.
Vij’s Railway Express
For fans of Vij’s and Rangoli, this one’s a no-brainer, but even if you’ve never dined in Vikram’s world, Railway Express is guaranteed to take you on a joyful ride. If seared ling cod in mango sour cream sounds too far-fetched, how about butter chicken schnitzel or lamb kebobs with cassava fries? Don’t forget to wash it down with the ginger lemonade.
Yolk’s Breakfast
All-day breakfast doesn’t sound super-revolutionary at first sniff, but lean in a bit closer and you’ll understand why this robin’s egg blue truck is so popular. Poached, free-range egg sandwiches are studded with double-smoked bacon or hand-carved ham, the hollandaise is made fresh daily, and they can be paired with truffle-lemon hashbrowns. Yes, truffle-lemon hashbrowns. Pair with housemade beignets and salted caramel dip, plus a Matchstick coffee for a complete breakfast.
Ze Bite
French food is sadly under-represented in the street food arena, which is why the opening of this little French crepe and sandwich truck had me so verklempt. Rosemary ham with herbes de Provence and grainy mustard on a proper baguette or gluten-free crepe is a touch of Paris I have sorely missed. For something a little more inventive, the citrus and spice-braised pork with jalapenos and apples is a winner, especially when paired with the lush and herbally tomato soup.
All photos by Rob Newell
