Tacos have become the sushi of Vancouver. A few short years ago, finding authentic tacos in the city required a fedora and bullwhip, and maybe some foreign language skills. Nowadays, throw some corn flour and you’ll hit one of a handful of very good, very authentic places that specialize in the popular Mexican street food.
Tofino visitors have been long been acquainted with Tacofino, the little food truck stationed in the Live to Surf parking lot off Pacific Highway, a favourite with surfing fanatics and family campers alike. When news came that owners Jason Sussman, Kaeli Robinson and Ryan Spong were launching a sister truck in Vancouver, a rousing chorus of hallelujahs let loose. That food truck has now spawned Victoria and Kelowna offspring, as well as a bricks-and-mortar location on East Hastings in the growing gastro-mecca that includes the likes of The Red Wagon, Campagnolo Roma, and Schokolade.
It was this location that I visited several times in recent weeks. One of the benefits of having a larger, more permanent space is the ability to expand the menu – and offer booze.
The tiny wine list leans heavily on Spain and the cocktails are mainly based on tequila or mezcal. Try the cava sangria or the mezcal acido for a few kicks, or be a purist with one of the 15 or so surprisingly awesome whiskeys.
As for that expanded menu, the classic and much-loved tacos are still there ($6 each or two for $10), including a stellar yam tempura with avocado, large bonito flakes and a plum-vinegar soy dressing. Another standout was the pork jowl with cabbage, fried shallots, pineapple, and a lick of sriracha to balance out the sweetness.
A torta off the lunch menu was less impressive. Stuffed with what was labelled as pork al pastor, as well as black beans, asadero cheese, and lots of seedy chilies, it lacked the sweetness and acidity that is typical of al pastor, which involves marinating the meat in pineapple and spices before slow-cooking. The meat here was fork-tender, but, without the balance, lay heavily in the mouth.
Items off the dinner menu were much better. Corn fritters are a solid starter, with cotija cheese and kabocha squash. Grilled octopus salad with crispy yucca fries was lovely, with avocado-jalapeno cream and a lime-pepper aioli. Desserts are fun and easy. Lime curd vaso is a tart take on dulce de leche, with a base of brown butter and graham cracker crumbs holding up a slightly sweet curd and lots of whipped cream. Banana churros were nice, but the “milk and cookies,” here served with horchata, an almond-milk beverage, and spicy chocolate cookies, is outstanding and worth repeat visits.
The tacos are still the top picks here, but you won’t go wrong with much of the menu, and the opportunity to pair some good mezcal with a two-fister of pulled pork is never a bad idea.
All ratings out of five stars.
Food: ★★★
Service: ★★
Ambiance: ★★★
Overall: ★★★
★: Okay, nothing memorable.
★★: Good, shows promise.
★★★: Very good, occasionally excellent.
★★★★: Excellent, consistently above average.
★★★★★: Awe-inspiring, practically perfect in every way.
Open for lunch Monday-Sunday, 11:30am-3pm, dinner Monday-Saturday from 5pm.
Tacofino | 261 East Hastings | 604-253-8226 | TacofinoCommissary.com
Hear Anya Levykh every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday. FoodGirlFriday.com
