A Vancouverite born and raised, it has taken me 47 years to get to the Rockies. It’s sad, but true. New York, London and Paris always seem more exotic, and I’ve lost count the number of times I have visited these world cities. A recent trip to Calgary to meet my future in-laws allowed me the opportunity to explore the majestic mountains — one of Canada’s most treasured jewels — for the very first time.
Literally in our back yard, accessible by plane, train and automobile, the spectacular mountain range and terrain is breathtaking. Lush mountain meadows, virgin forests and towering waterfalls as far as the eye can see. Snow-capped peaks soar far above the iridescent waters of glacier-fed lakes. Photographs can barely capture the experience and beauty. Jaw-dropping, eye-popping and awe-inspiring. Tourists from the U.S., Germany and Mainland China busily snap selfies.
Five national parks — collectively declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its unique landscape — are located within the Canadian Rockies; four — Banff, Yoho, Jasper and Kootenay — are adjacent and make up the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks. Nestled in the natural settings, my partner Joshua and I explored the charming towns of Banff and Lake Louise, the de rigueur of any visit to the country’s original alpine getaway.
Far from the madding crowd, Joshua and I drove a little further west and found ourselves at Cathedral Mountain Lodge, a more secluded luxury resort on the B.C. side of the provincial border in Yoho National Park. Set along the forested edge of Kicking Horse River, 31 handcrafted timber cabins offer the quintessential Canadian experience. Tucked among the towering peaks of Mt. Stephens and Cathedral Mountain, a sanctuary for those seeking discovery and rejuvenation.
Originally built as a base camp for miners in the 1930s, the site has been meticulously reimagined by Nancy Stibbard, who has developed a number of world-class destinations, including nearby Moraine Lake Lodge — designed by Arthur Erickson, who also designed Capilano Suspension Bridge Park and the Stanley Park Pavilion. Completed in 2006, the lodge is an oasis in the heart of the Rockies.
From the wood-burning stone fireplace, metal pine cone lamps and moose and bear patterned pillows and bathroom tiles in our rustic cabin, a feeling of Canadiana immediately greeted us.
Cozy duvets, deep soaker tubs and s’mores roasted fireside screamed relaxation. Removed of urban distractions, no television or telephone interrupted our mountain getaway.
Still, meals in the Riverside Dining Room that served Alberta beef and Ocean Wise seafood reminded us of fine dinners back home.
Spending a weekend in Canada’s most famous mountain range carries with it the luxury of immediate access to the great outdoors. There is biking, boating, river rafting, horseback riding, fly-fishing and canoeing, one of the most iconic Canadian activities. Seeking more idle contemplation, Joshua and I enjoyed nearby Takakkaw Falls (Canada’s second-highest waterfall) and a hike around Emerald Lake before reflecting on the day’s activities on our private deck.
Under evergreens and soaring mountains, listening to the Kicking Horse River amble by, taking in the heady scents of pine and cedar and watching the sun gently set behind the stately peaks, I wondered why I never did this sooner.
Cathedral Mountain Lodge is open until Sept. 30. See more at cathedralmountain.com.
