If you’re like me, you have to be convinced to leave BC in the summer. We pretty much have it all, eh? But this 150th year, many Canadians have Ottawa on the brain. If massive Canada Day crowds and urban settings leave you feeling pinched, allow me to suggest the perfect old-school Ontario alternative for your Canada 150 plans.
A few hours down the highway from the capital, there exists a near-mystical detour from the 401 called Prince Edward County. PEC is a large, gentle island, nestled on the north shore of Lake Ontario just below Belleville. About 10 years ago, my in-laws bought a little house by the lake, and this hardcore West Coast boy has slowly come around to the Ontario charms of this idyllic and easy place.
Patriotic 200-year-old small towns like Wellington, Bloomfield and Picton pop up along the winding curves of the historic Loyalist Parkway (as in the United Empire Loyalists), which links PEC to the rest of the world.
For centuries, this island’s soil has been rich for farming of all types, but within the last decade or so, wineries and art galleries have taken over many of the fading, highly photogenic barns and farmyards; tractors and silos have been replaced by rows of grape vines (check out By Chadsey’s Cairns), and wood-fired pizza ovens (hello Norman Hardie).
The hipsters with their boutique hotels, artisan ice cream shops, and craft breweries have followed in lock-step, making Prince Edward County one of the most sought-after 21st-century vacation destinations in Canada.
Hurry. Even though the hipster invasion has had the usual effect (locals grumbling/real estate soaring) the County is still a wonderfully relaxing place to visit during the summer months.
Should you venture, here’s just a few of the hot spots:
In Wellington, everything changed when the Drake Devonshire Hotel opened a couple of years ago right on the lakeshore. A country-mouse cousin of the ultra-hipster Drake Hotel empire in Toronto, this place is pure luxury on the lake – Justin Trudeau and his wife were recent visitors. Non-guests are welcome anytime at the restaurant and the Tuesday night open mic, where lots of local star power often drops in to sing unannounced.
Down the street you’ll find the newly opened Midtown Brewery, in an old meat-packing factory, as well as the somewhat ridiculously named Cribs on the Creek, boutique accommodation that is literally built right over a fish-bearing stream. And if you can find it parked at one of the many wineries, the Picnic Food Truck is amazing.
In Picton, the largest town in PEC, the must-stop is Books and Company, one of the best independent bookstores in Canada. Across the street is a statue of a young John A. MacDonald, who grew up in the area and first practised law in Picton. A few steps away is the historic Regent Theatre. On Canada Day the theatre hosts a reunion gig by legendary Toronto band Rheostatics.
Toronto’s Arts and Crafts Records are getting in on the County action too, hosting a series of concerts at a downhome PEC venue called the Hayloft. On July 14 you can catch Vancouver’s very own Dan Mangan.
I know that BC beaches can’t be topped, but there’s just something about the fine sand that lines the shores of PEC. The crowds tend to flock to the famous Sandbanks Provincial Park, which comes as advertised, but it’s often completely overrun (and this year, lake levels are extremely high, reducing the amount of available beach). Much more inviting is North Beach. Cross the dunes from the lakeshore to find an inner bay with a gentle sandy shoreline and wonderfully warm water in the summer months.
If I must leave BC in the summer months, chances are, you’ll find me with my oh-so-patriotic in-laws in Prince Edward County. Happy Canada 150.
