A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to view a few very exceptional pieces from Guerlain Paris at Holt Renfew in Vancouver. The perfume bottles ranged from $10,000-$50,000 (yikes!) will all kinds of details such as silk thread combed feathers, crystal wings faceted like diamonds and melted colored glass on a metal framework dipped in 24K gold.
I took the opportunity to meet with Sylvaine Delacourte who is the Director of Fragrance Evaluation and Development for the company to ask her about what goes into creating your own scent. From whether perfume really spoils to the difference between Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfume, I was in for a crash course on finding my perfect spring scent.
A: How does creating your own fragrance all begin?
S: To create a bespoken fragrance, I start with creating a portrait of my client. My goal is to help people recreate beautiful moments in their life through fragrance. This usually entails asking my client to think back in their memory (before 7 years old would be perfect). I ask them to be in a relaxed and positive mood in order to connect with a memory. I will then present the client with some nodes that they can choose which they prefer. Slowly, I will narrow down the options and let my perfumer know which combinations will work for the client. It all takes about 9 months to a year to finish a bespoken fragrance. The bottled fragrance will have your signature on it and can be passed down to subsequent generations.
A: How much does a bespoken fragrance usually cost?
S: From $55,000 for two liters and the formula belongs to that family. For us, perfume has to be something that touches your soul and is really your signature. I’ve also created a unisex perfume for couples to celebrate their anniversary.
A: Have you noticed a preference for certain nodes regionally?
S: Each person has an their own individual taste but here you love freshness and sweet node. In Japan, people tend to like sweet nodes with a floral touch. In France and Europe love florals, sweet and vanilla nodes.
A: For someone who doesn’t wear a lot of perfume, what would be a good starting point for finding a perfume that would work?
S: I would recommend starting with a fresh scent then perhaps citrus.
A: What’s the difference between Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfume?
S: Eau de Toilette is a re-orchestration. Each perfume has a DNA and Eau de Toilette has different nodes added to it.
A: Does perfume ever go bad?
S: Yes. 2-3 years is usually the shelf life for perfume. We use organic ingredients (Jasmine, Iris, Bergamot etc.). I’d advise to put your perfume in the fridge. Of course it’s the most glamorous but it’ll last longer and give you a refreshed feeling when you put it on.
A: What is the proper way to put on perfume?
S: French women will often put perfume on just after they get out of the shower in the morning before they put on their foundation. It give you a fresh and clean feel.
Amy Yew is a contributing columnist at Vancouver Courier and a fashion and style writer. She is also the author of a blog Style du Jour. Tell us what you think and submit any questions you have to amyvancouvercourier@gmail.com.
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